Wooden Lure Making
Learn to Make Your Own Wooden Lures
Wooden Lure Making Basic Instructions
These first steps of making your own wooden lures are focused on the use of the Wooden Lure Blocks and the Wooden Lure Block Kits.
There are several methods you can use to make/shape your lures. You can make them by turning the lure blocks in a lathe, by hand carving, or by the use of power sander like a Dremel tool or a belt sander. The use of a lathe is the easiest way to make high quality lures of a consistent size and shape.
The lure blocks in the Wooden Lure Block Kits come with several of the key steps already completed. The eye holes for the 5/16 3D molded eyes and the eye screw holes in both ends of the lure block are pre drilled. The popper mouth in the Special K popper lure is pre cut. Whether you are carving the lure or turning it on a lathe; remove wood from the lure block down to where the eye socket hole is a little less than 1/8 inch deep. These holes will accommodate the eyes later. Whether carving or turning; the pre drilled eye screw holes in both ends of the lure will be the center of the ends of the finished lure. If you are turning the popper lure block in a lathe, mount the pre cut mouth end in the live center of the lathe. (right hand side of the lathe)
When making lures from the Wooden Lure Blocks; mark the center point on the ends of the lure block with a pencil before you start the turning or carving process. This ensures that the finished lure will be in the center of
the lure block.
When turning the lure blocks on a lathe; turn the lure blocks all the way to end of the block. In other words; the lure block length you begin with should be the length of the finished lure. Doing it this way ensures the holes for the eye screws are in the dead center on the ends of the lure and that each additional lure of this type is exactly the same length.
If you purchase the Wooden Lure Blocks and plan to drill eyes holes for the 3D molded eyes; I suggest the use of a forstner bit for this job. Forstner bits and 3D molded eyes are available in various sizes. Details on how to build a lure block holder for drilling eye holes are available in the e-book on Lure Making at http://www.woodenluremaking.com
When turning the lures on a lathe the only sand paper you will need is a sheet of 320 grit. Cut it into 1 inch strips to use on the lathe. When carving, a Fine Sanding Block will work fine for the sanding job.
Even though the lure body is already sanded; consider a little sanding on the lure body with 320 or 400 grit fine sandaper.
The easiest way to get a reasonably good white base coat on your lure is by dipping them in Rustoleum Flat White 7590 or 7790 Enamel paint. When using in warmer temperatures (80 degrees and up) no thinner is needed. When cooler than this I suggest paint thinner as a thinner. 5 to 6 tablespoons of paint thinner to a quart of paint is a good place to start.
Look for a pint of this paint or equivalent if you are painting only a few lures. If you cannot dip the lure you can paint it with a small artist type brush. Another possible way to get a white base coat is to you the small bottles of white Testors enamel that you will find in any arts and crafts type store. Plan on allowing at least 1 day for the base coat paint to dry.
Another choice base applying a white base coat is with an aerosol can of flat white enamel. At least two applications will be needed for good cover.
The painting of lures is made much easier with the use of some sort of lure holding device. Pictured below is what I use and they are easy to make. With a 3/16 inch dowel rod, a 5/8 inch dowel rod, and some 1 1/8 inch eye screws you can make several of these lure holders.
If you are painting only a couple lures you can hang the lure to paint and dry by screwing an eye screw in the end of the lure and hang it to something by a short piece of wire or a straightened paper clip.
First choice is color lacquer used in an air brush and second choice is Rustoleum aersol cans of colored lacquer. There are several colors available. Use at least two thinly applied coats. Third choice is the use of an artist brush with Testors enamel or lacquer. Testor also sells aerosol cans of both enamel and lacquer. http://www.testors.com
Much more detail on paint coatings and the painting processes are available in the complete e-book on Wooden Lure Making at http://www.woodenluremaking.com
After the color coat is done and prior to the application of the final clear coat is the time to glue the eyes into the eye holes. A good water proof glue like Tite Bond II works fine. Apply a small drop of glue in the eye socket of the lure and insert the eye. Let it cure for at least an hour.
A great choice is Rustoleum clear lacquer in aerosol cans. Hold the can at least 8 inches away from the lure. Apply with a moving motion of the can. Do not hold in one spot or you will over apply. Let dry 30 minutes and apply a second coat of clear lacquer.
Hooks and Hardware
Once the final clear coat is completely dry is the time to attach all hardware. Small needle nose pliers and a small screw driver are needed for this job. Be careful not to let the tools slip and ruin your paint job
Good luck and good fishing,