Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Some Basic Lure Making Guidelines

Wooden Lure Making Basic Guidelines

There are several methods you can use to make/shape your lures. You can make them by turning the lure blocks in a lathe, by hand carving, or by the use of power sander like a Dremel tool or a belt sander. The use of a lathe is the easiest way to make high quality lures of a consistent size and shape.

The lure blocks in the Wooden Lure Block Kits come with several of the key steps already completed. The eye holes for the 5/16 3D molded eyes and the eye screw holes in both ends of the lure block are pre drilled. The popper mouth in the Special K popper lure is pre cut. Whether you are carving the lure or turning it on a lathe; remove wood from the lure block down to where the eye socket hole is a little less than 1/8 inch deep. These holes will accommodate the eyes later. Whether carving or turning; the pre drilled eye screw holes in both ends of the lure will be the center of the ends of the finished lure. If you are turning the popper lure block in a lathe, mount the pre cut mouth end in the live center of the lathe. (right hand side of the lathe)

When making lures from the Wooden Lure Blocks; mark the center point on the ends of the lure block with a pencil before you start the turning or carving process. This ensures that the finished lure will be in the center of
the lure block.

When turning the lure blocks on a lathe; turn the lure blocks all the way to end of the block. In other words; the lure block length you begin with should be the length of the finished lure. Doing it this way ensures the holes for the eye screws are in the dead center on the ends of the lure and that each additional lure of this type is exactly the same length.

If you purchase the Wooden Lure Blocks and plan to drill eyes holes for the 3D molded eyes; I suggest the use of a forstner bit for this job. Forstner bits and 3D molded eyes are available in various sizes. Details on how to build a lure block holder for drilling eye holes are available in the e-book on Lure Making at http://www.woodenluremaking.com/
Sanding
When turning the lures on a lathe the only sand paper you will need is a sheet of 320 grit. Cut it into 1 inch strips to use on the lathe. When carving, a Fine Sanding Block will work fine for the sanding job.
Painting Instructions

Primer/Base Coat
The easiest way to get a reasonably good base coat on your lure is by dipping them in Rustoleum 7590 Flat Flat Enamel paint. When using in warmer temperatures (80 degrees and up) no thinner is needed. When cooler than this I suggest one part thinner to nine parts paint is a good place to start.

The painting of lures is made much easier with the use of some sort of lure holding device. Pictured below is what I use and they are easy to make. With a 3/16 inch dowel rod , a 5/8 inch dowel rod, and some 1 1/8 inch eye screws you can make several of these lure holders.

Color Coat
First choice is color lacquer used in an air brush and second choice is Rustoleum aersol cans of colored lacquer. There are several colors available. Use at least two thinly applied coats. Third choice is the use of an artist brush with Testors enamel or lacquer. Testor also sells aerosol cans of both enamel and lacquer. Much more detail on paint coatings and the painting processes are available in the complete e-book on Wooden Lure Making at http://www.woodenluremaking.com/
After the color coat is done and prior to the application of the final clear coat is the time to glue the eyes into the eye holes. A good water proof glue like Tite Bond II works fine.

Clear Coat
A 1 part or 2 part clear coat epoxy is best for this job. A great second choice is Rustoleum clear lacquer in aerosol cans.

Hooks and Hardware
Once the final clear coat is completely dry is the time to attach all hardware. Small needle nose pliers and a small screw driver are needed for this job.

Good luck and good fishing,
Kermett Adams

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